It is fully automatic and makes the correction easy, regardless of all parameters that influence the spirality of tubular knitted fabric. Knit fabric skew or spirality caused by wale loop distortion when knitted fabrics are allowed to relax off the knitting machine, they will spiral. Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change. Spirality correction system patent pending is a machine made for controlling the remaining twist of the tubular knitted fabric. Spirality can cause serious problems when the fabrics are made up into garments like displacement of shifting of seams, mismatched patterns, sewing difficulties, etc. Perhaps there is no other area save spirality in weft knitted. Sop for merchandising department in the readymade garment. The tightness of yarn and fabric structure is the indirect factor of shrinkage. Pdf a study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric a study on. Tightness of the knitting construction, fabric relaxation and finishing processes also have considerable influence on the extent of spirality3. The two classes of knitted fabrics are the filling knit and the warp knit.
Pdf spirality is particularly serious problem for single jersey knitted fabrics due to their asymmetrical loop formation. Abstract spirality is a common problem in weft knitted fabric. Investigation on the changes of areal density of knit. Keywords circular knitting, machine gauge, gsm, shrinkage, spirality, physical and mechanical properties 1. Yarn twist multiplier is the principle cause of spirality and it is directly proportional. Effect of knitted structures and yarn count on the. Knitted fabri c, spirality, steam setting 1 introduction several techniques dealing with yarn and fabric processing have been adopted to overcome spirality. Shahid ma, ahmed f, mahabubuzzaman akm, hannan ma, khan an 2010 spirality in cotton knit fabrics before and after compacting using selected yarn count and stitch length. The properties of knit fabric are changing with change of count of the yarn by keeping the parameters of knitting machine dia, gauge, stitch length same in every case. Textiles determination of spirality after laundering part 2.
Spirality of knitted fabric is obtained when the wale is not perpendicular to the course, forming an angle of spirality with vertical direction of the fabric. Spirality in knitted fabric omics publishing group. This standard is also available to be included in standards subscriptions. In case bulk fabric approval to be taken from buyerbuying house, merchant should do sample submission and follow up for the approval. Fabrics made on circular knitting machines can have inherent nonverticality of wale alignment. A study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric a study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric article pdf available april 2011 with 3,205 reads how we measure reads. Pdf a study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric. Course spirality is a very common inherent problem in plain knitted fabrics. In a flat piece, the yarn is raveled back and forth. Effect of fabric structures and yarn fineness on the.
The scs works in line before the compactor using patented technology and sophisticated control paramaters and a specically designed correction chamber that operates at the speed of the compactor. To minimize spirality in the finished fabric, the cloth should be knitted on a machine with the finest possible gauge at a tightness factor value. The fabric structure is different from one from another. This is where a woven fabric will have the greatest give. Navis tubetex, a leading supplier of high technology finishing machinery to the global textile industry has announced the launch of an all new technology for controlling spirality in knit fabrics. This paper investigates the effect of fabric weight on the spirality of single jersey fabrics. Twist is the measures of the spiral turns given to a yarn in order to hold the. Fold the fabric so lengthwise and crosswise yarns lie on top of and parallel to each other. Seffect of yam conditioning on knitted fabric spirality angle chosen to make more distinguish the effect of the yarn twist liveliness on the spirality of the knitted fabrics. It is very normal unit equation, if a 30 diameter and 24 gauge machines produce a single jersey fabric of finished width 150cm from 30ne yarn with 2. True bias is the 45degree angle or middle between the crosswise and lengthwise grain. For this aim, ten knitted fabrics with different weights were knitted with 100% cotton and tt 19. The spirality of singlejersey knitted fabrics may be temporarily corrected by low levels of fabric strain, achieved by using a former during steam processing or presslll. A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread runs in horizontal direction.
Introduction the dimensional stability of knitted fabrics is an important factor of the knitting industry. There are different types of causes for occurring fabric spirlity. Determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by image analyses. This paper is focused on change in shrinkage, gsm, wales per inch and course per inch due to structure and count variation and state variation.
Pdf spirality is a problem in knitted fabrics, especially in the apparel industry. Spirality occurs in knitted fabric because of asymmetric loops which turns in the wales and course of a fabric into an angular relationship other than 90 degree. International journal of fiber and textile research 44 6270. The proposed algorithm has yielded fast and accurate results.
Effect of fabric structures and yarn fineness on the properties of knitted fabric. In order to promote public education and public safety, equal justice for all, a better informed citizenry, the rule of law, world trade and world peace, this legal document is hereby made available on a noncommercial basis, as it is the right of all humans to. Scribd is the worlds largest social reading and publishing site. After pretreatment process the samples were tested for widthwise shrinkage, width, gsm, wales per. Effect of fabric structure and stitch length on wales per centimeter of the single jersey knitted fabric is significant at wet and fully relaxed state. A study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric. Twist liveliness of spun yarns and the effects on knitted fabric spirality. They can be raveled readily, and they easily develop runs, or ladders, when a yarn is broken. In a relaxed state of single jersey tubular fabrics. The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing. Spirality of single jersey knitted fabric knitting. Study on the important factors influencing spirality of. Note that some fabric constructions, such as denim, can have spirality intentionally introduced during manufacturing.
Study on different types of knitting faults, causes and remedies of knit fabrics quality, a. In order to evaluate objectively, the knitted fabric roll 120 muhammad abu taher et al. The most important problem of the single jersey structure is fabric spirality, which affects all the fabric. Number of feedersthough higher feeder numbers increases production, spirality also increased. Introduction knitting is a technique for producing a twodimensional fabric made from a onedimensional yarn or thread 1. It appears in mostly in single jersey fabrics but in double jersey fabrics this level in about zero. Ebscohost serves thousands of libraries with premium essays, articles and other content including bow, skewness and spirality in knitted fabrics. Fabric shrinkage and spirality is the ultimate problem if the. Spirality of cotton plain knitted fabrics with respect to. Examples of this defect are shown in plate i, where a is a normal straight fabric, while 6 and c are fabrics with a bias to the left and the right respectively. This creates serious problem, especially in the apparel industry.
Knitting technology definition and types of knitted. For easier assessment of the spirality angle of the produced fabrics, a latch needle was removed from the cylinder. Causes and remedies of spirality for knitted fabrics. Merchandiser need to provide approvals to each fabric for fabric quality, shrinkage and spirality and fabric shade band. Hong kong polytechnic university institute of textiles and clothing, ph. Some relaxation of yarn and knitting stresses occurs when the fabric is first unrolled after knitting. In other words, spirality occurs in knitted fabric because of asymmetric loops which turns in the wales and course of a fabric into an angular relationship other than 90 degree.
The following are some predominant causes of spirality in knitted fabrics. Spirality can also be termed as fabric skew or fabric torque. Percentage of wale spirality change in knitted garments iso textiles determination of spirality after laundering part 2. Presentation of shrinkage of knits textiles knitting. It has been suggested that the total spirality in the fabric is contributed by both spirality and drop effect 1,4. You will learn the meaning of terms like knit and purl, wale and course and how a weft knit differs from a warp knit. This work was carried out with 12 samples of single jersey, single lacoste and weft lock knit fabrics of different counts which were scoured with naoh. Textiles determination of spirality after laundering.
Transformation fft on woven fabric toriumi 8 measured. Depending on the fabrics design knitted fabrics can be as follow. Spirality correction system scs of knitted fabrics. Navis tubetex launches new technology for spirality. Pdf spirality in knitted fabric rama moorthi govindan. We start by demonstrating the difference between woven and knit fabrics and then how knits are structured.
The most suitable method for producing spirality free single jersey fabrics is by knitting twofolded yarnsl. Even though aspects of spirality have been studied in the. We will teach you about how knits are made and about the different types of yarns, so that when. That means the greater the number needle greater the width of the fabric. If the wales of the knitted fabric are not perpendicular to the course and skew to the right or left spirality occurs in the fabric. The tighter the structure, the expansion of the fiber cause the yarn to swell, then the warp height of the yarn in the fabric increases and the length of the yarn in the buckling state becomes shorter, so the fabric shrinks. One swatch card to be given to store, one for production file and one for merchandiser. We have investigated spirality in both dry and fully relaxed jersey fabrics. The width of the fabric is formed by the wale of knitted fabric and one wale is formed one needle.
Yarns of different counts knitted to the same loop length display different physical properties such as drape, openness, permeability, handle and spirality etc. Introduction to knit fabrics university of fashion. This is a very common problem in single jersey knits and it may exist in grey, washed or finished state and has an obvious influence on both the aesthetic and. Effect of gauge variation of circular knitting machine on. Pdf determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by image analyses. Pdf determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by. In our daily life, we use different knitted fabrics. This lesson is the first in our 7part series on working with knit fabrics. Effect of filament fineness on composite yarn residual torque. The scs is given the input data for the given fabrics spirality percentage, direction of rotation, and tubular width. Spirality in plainknitted fabrics is well known, and is caused by the twist liveliness or torque of yams. Spirality of single jersey knitted fabric free download as pdf file. Effect of filament fineness on composite yarn residual. Knitting, spirality, weft knitted fabric, yam twist liveliness.
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